Tuesday, March 15, 2005

The wildlife of the mountains

Another weekend, another mini-break! This time, up north to the mountains, in the ‘Sunshine Coast Hinterland’.

First stop was the Glass House Mountains which, according to ‘walkabout.com’, are ‘a series of spectacular volcanic plugs rising dramatically from the coastal plain’ – couldn’t have put it better myself. They were named by Captain Cook, who seemed to do a remarkable amount of looking and naming on his way past this area, without getting off his boat, still I suppose speed is of the essence when you’re a discoverer….

The Mountains

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Mount Beerburrum was the first hill we came across and we decided to climb up to see the view. The climb was very steep and hot, but we were well-rewarded with a fantastic sweeping view across the mountains and out to the sunshine coast.

After recovering from the climb we set off to Maleny which is in the Blackall range of mountains further north. Maleny is a small, thriving community that has, amongst other delights, a cheese shop. This was especially exciting as we missed the Great British Cheese Festival last year and I was delighted to find that it sells Tasty Lancashire, which is made in Tasmania, but is still tasty. Maleny also has a co-operative run organic shop and café, that sells strange dandelion tea and delicious paninis.

We stayed at a place called Witta, on the ridge of the mountain range. Our wooden cottage overlooked a tiny but beautiful valley with 2 small dams filled with lily pads. We spent a lovely evening eating cheese and warming ourselves by the open fire (because both Matthew and I had forgotten to take anything warmer than a t-shirt).

The cottage

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The Browns

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On the first evening we were visited by a very friendly Kookaburra who sat with us on the veranda until we were too cold to stay outside. The next morning he came back and we discovered the reason for his acquaintance – toast!

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I’ve never been eyed up by a kookaburra before and it’s quite scary. I’d parted with my vegemite on toast before I’d had time to think about the ethical considerations of feeding wild birds…they’ve got very pointy talons you know…

Breakfast

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After a replacement slice of toast and a brisk walk in the long grass around our cabin, we drove round to the Kondalilla Falls National Park, which is home to an impressive waterfall surrounded by a forest of Piccabean palms and Bunya pines. We walked down the valley to find the rock pools at the top of the falls full of Aussies doing dive bombs.

Feeling hunger pangs, we drove up to Montville, touted in the tour guide as ‘the most picturesque place on the mountain’. We arrived to find a sort-of Ambleside-inspired dystopia. The pavements were crammed with hoards of tourists consuming their way through scores of tat-filled boutiques and overpriced cafes. The architecture of Montville could be described as Tudor-cum-Disney-cum-‘Heidi of the mountains’, which is interesting – especially the ‘historic’ waterwheel circa 1980.

We stopped in at the relative serenity of the Poets Café and after a very quick walk along the main street and a brief run in with a rubbish photographer selling postcards in frames for $50, we ran away, back to Maleny for a bit of normality and an ice cream from the cheese shop (but not cheese flavoured).

Matthew and I got back to Brisbane feeling a bit itchy and it has taken us a few days to notice that the ‘bites’ we are covered in are actually ticks enjoying a slap up meal at our expense. We are now dab hands with a pair of tweezers, having spent a few happy hours picking ticks off each other like chimps.

We will definitely be wary of long grass in the future, but the lure of the cheese shop is strong and another trip to Maleny is certainly worth the risk of a minor infestation.

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